General Should I get an electric or nitro powered radio-controlled car?

      This is one of the most important questions that most beginners over look. Nitro powered cars are a lot faster and required more driving skill to control. There is also more Maintenance required because of the nitro engine. The user will need to learn and understand engine tuning and mechanics of basic hobby engines. Strong parental supervision is recommended for users under 16 years of age.
      Electric powered cars are much simpler and require less maintenance than nitro. The user simply charges the batteries and run the car. Very little adjusting is needed. Recommended for beginners.

What additional items are needed to drive my car?

      If you have a nitro-powered car then you will need the following items: 12 AA batteries, Glow Heater (G70403), High quality car model fuel 20%-30%, Flat head screwdriver, Fuel bottle ( G70427)
      If you have an electric powered car then you will need the following items: 8 AA batteries, 7.2-volt battery, 7.2-volt battery charger

Can I use different tires on my car?

      You may use any brand of tire as long as it fits on the wheel.

If my engine is running hot what do I do?

      If your engine is running too hot you need to richen up the fuel mixture. This means the engine needs more fuel to lower the temperature.

Why will my car not start?

      99% of the time when our customers cant get there engines to start is because they didn't charge or install a fresh battery into there glow igniter.

How do I stop/stall my engine?

      The best way to stall the engine is to simply run it out of fuel. To stall the engine quickly, simply cut-off the exhaust with a rag or your finger. Be careful the pipe may be hot.

My electric car rolls slowly or does not stop in neutral?

      You need to adjust your throttle trim. Turning the knob in one direction will make the car roll faster, turning the knob the other way will make the car stop.

Do your cars have reverse?

      Our electric cars do have reverse. Our nitro-powered cars/trucks do not have reverse.

What % of fuel should I use?

We highly recommend using 20% fuel for 1/10 scale Nitro vehicle and 30% fuel for 1/8 scale nitro vehicle

Nitro

How the Engine Works
Glow Starter
Fuel Bottle
Starting the Engine
Signs of Overheating
Tuning the High-Speed Mixture
Adjusting the Slipper Clutch
Troubleshooting
Quick Reference Chart
Engine Exploded View

Required Equipment
Fuel
Radio System Operation
Breaking-In the Engine
Tuning Engine for Power
Tuning the Low-Speed Mixture
After Running
Maintenance
Engine Assembly Instructions
Engine Parts List
Recommended Engine Setting

How the Engine Works        The nitro engine is a two-stroke, air-cooled (water-cooled marine) engine. It features a true "ABC" (Aluminum, Brass, Chrome) construction. The chrome sleeve has a slight taper so the aluminum piston fits tighter towards the top of the sleeve compared to the bottom. When the engine reaches proper operating temperature its perfect running tolerances will then be achieved. The piston will feel tighter when the engine is cold.

       Fuel enters the engine through the carburetor where it is mixed with air. The fuel/air mixture is then drawn into the crankcase. The crankshaft has a rotating valve, which opens and closes the crankcase to let fuel into it. On the pistons down stroke, the crankcase becomes pressurized, and fuel is blown into the combustion chamber through intake ports cut into the sleeve. On the upstroke, the fuel is compressed and ignited. When first trying to start your engine, the electrically heated glow plug causes the fuel to ignite. Once the engine is running the fuel is ignited by rapid compression in the combustion chamber. The exhaust is then released through a third port in the sleeve.

       The oil that is contained in the fuel mixture lubricates the surfaces of the piston and the sleeve. The oil in the fuel also helps to cool the engine while running. Some of the oil is burned when in the combustion process which is what creates the blue smoke trail from the car.

       The air to fuel mixture is critically important. A mixture that is too "rich" means that there is too much fuel, a mixture that is too "lean" means that there is not enough fuel for the given amount of air. When the mixture is too rich, performance will be sluggish. There is also a high potential to foul the glow plug when running the car too rich. When the mixture is too lean, there is not enough oil to lubricate and cool the engine parts. Running too lean will almost certainly damage internal engine parts as well as foul the glow plug.

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Required Equipment To operate your new engine you are going to need the following items. These items should all be available at your local hobby dealer.

Glow heater/glow igniter
Model engine fuel formulated for cars between 20-30%% nitro content.
Fuel bottle, needed to fuel up your gas tank.
Small Phillips and flat head screw drivers. Needed for making adjustment to carburetor.
After-run oil. Should be used after running the engine to prevent rust and corrosion.
Spare glow plugs. Glow plugs will always be one of the first items to go bad in a nitro engine.
Air filter; never run your engine with out a good quality air filter.
5/16-inch nut driver or glow plug wrench.

Glow Starter The glow heater is a battery-powered device that heats the glow plug so the engine can be started. You should not leave the glow igniter on the glow plug for long periods of time; this could burn up your glow plug leaving it useless. You will always need to use the glow heater to start your engine. Most of the time an engine doesn't start is due to a dead battery on the glow heater.

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Fuel       Always read and follow all of the instructions on your fuel bottle. Nitro fuel is very flammable and poisonous.

       Fuel is the most important component for making your engine run and perform properly. Poor fuels will cause hard starting, poor performance and excessive wear of the engine. We currently recommends these fuels:

Byron's Originals
O'Donnell
Redline
Trinity

       There are many good brands of fuels on the market. You may use any of them as long as they meet the basic minimum requirements.   However, avoid Traxxas Top fuel, HPI Fuel and Blue Thunder.

Fuel must be a castor and synthetic oil blend with total oil content of 12-15%
Nitro methane (Nitro) content should be around 20-30%.

The best fuels on the market today are castor/synthetic blends. The castor provides high temperature lubrication while the synthetic oils help prevent varnish build up inside the engine. The higher quality fuels also contain anti-wear agents, anti-foaming agents, lubrication additives, and rust and corrosion inhibitors. Use fuels that are made for use in cars, not airplanes. (Airplane/boat fuel is ok for marine engines) Car fuel will give better performance with easier tuning, and longer run times.

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Fuel Bottle Most brands of fuels are sold in a one-gallon containers, this makes it very hard to fill up your small gas tank with out a smaller bottle. You could also choose to get a small hobby fuel pump to help get fuel into your small tank. Always keep your fuel container closed tightly. The methanol in the fuel will evaporate very quickly leaving you with a bottle of bad fuel. Do not use fuel that is old or discolored, this is a sign of old stall gas.

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Radio System Operation Ready to run models only.

Install 4 "AA" batteries in the receiver pack on the car. Next install 8 "AA" batteries in the transmitter. Pull out the battery holder in the transmitter located at the bottom. Put in batteries correctly and replace with the metal tabs lining up on both the battery holder and the transmitter.

Turn on the radio system and check that all servos are working correctly. Check all the linkages to make sure they are not binding. *Always remember; the transmitter is the first to be tuned on and the last to be turned off. Never turn off the radio when the engine is running. To stall the engine you can either run it out of gas or pinch the fuel line until it stalls. The switch on the car only turns off the electronics in the car, not the engine.
Always make sure the batteries in both your car and your radio are strong or fully charged. Attempting to run your car with weak batteries will make the car not respond to users controls. It could even completely become uncontrollable and become a "runaway car" and severely damage the car.
Check the wires from your battery and your antenna wire every few runs. These wires could become damaged and result in loss of control.
Before starting the engine, always check the range of the transmitter before running the car. Short range can be the result of a broken antenna wire or weak batteries.

Starting the Engine (with a pump)

Step 1: Filling the fuel tank

       Using a small fuel bottle or bulb to put fuel in to the fuel tank. Only fill the tank ?full. You can refill the tank while the engine is running if desired.

Step 2: High-Speed mixture setting

       The high mixture screw controls how much fuel enters the engine during mid and high-speed operation. Turn the high-speed mixture screw clockwise, by hand until it stops. Now unscrew the screw counter-clockwise 3 1/2 full turns out.

Step 3: Setting the idle speed

       The idle screw is just a carburetor barrel stop. It just stops the carburetor from closing too far. Looking at the throttle opening on the carburetor, the opening should be between 1-1 ?millimeters at the widest point in the opening. The idle speed will increase the wider the opening is. The idle may need further adjusting once the engine is up to running temperature. *When you tighten the idle screw open the carburetor a little to take the pressure of the idle screw. Not doing so could snap the tip of the screw off.

Step 4: Low-speed mixture setting

       This adjustment screw controls the mixture at low speeds. The low-end screw is located on the side of the carburetor in the center of the throttle arm. Adjust this screw so the top of the screw head is flush with the throttle arm.

Step 5: Attaching the air filter

       Never run the engine with out an air filter. Doing so will cause premature engine failure. Using a zip tie to secure the air filter from falling off during hard driving.

Step 6: Priming the engine

       On top of the fuel tank you will find a priming pump. This is used to get fuel through the lines and into the carburetor when starting. Press the pump a couple of times until fuel reaches the carburetor. Pumping too many times will flood the engine.

Step 7: Shutting off the engine

       When you are finished running the engine you may "kill" it by either pinching off the fuel line or simply running it out of fuel. You may also stop the engine by stopping the flywheel; most people use their shoe for this. Do not use your fingers.

Step 8: Starting the engine

       Turn the radio system on. Now, attach the glow heater to the glow plug. Giving short quick pulls (no more then 6 inches out) pull the pull starter cord on the engine. Pulling the starter out to far will break the spring inside. Do not treat this like a lawnmower. It is not a lawnmower. If the cord becomes hard to pull it is most likely you have flooded the engine. Wait a few minutes then retry. If the starter is hard to pull, you could also loosen the glow plug ?of a turn then retighten once you have the engine started.

       If the engine does not start, have a friend hold half throttle on the transmitter to help get it started. You could also open the carburetor manually by moving the throttle arm.

       If, after many tries, you still cannot get the engine to fire you may have a fouled glow plug, glow heater not charged or working correctly, or the engine may be flooded. Most starting problems are glow heater or fuel related.

Starting the engine without a pump please use these instructions if your R/C car/boats fuel tank did not come with a primer pump

	Step 1: Charge your glow igniter or glow heater
	Step 2: Fill your fuel tank with high quality 20% nitro fuel.
	Step 3: Plug the exhaust outlet with your finger and pull the pull starter 3-4 times. Watch for fuel to fill the fuel line. Once you see fuel get to the carburetor take your finger off the exhaust outlet.
	Step 4: Put your glow igniter onto your glow plug. Give the engine 1/4 - 1/2 throttle using the transmitter and pull the pull cord with short quick pulls. No need to pull it more than 5-6 inches out. Warning: pulling more than 5-6 inches will bend the spring and may snap the cord.

Important Note: Attempting to start a hot engine may prove to be difficult. If engine is hot and difficult to start, let it cool down completely then try again.

To turn off your engine: Follow these simple steps when you are done running your engine. Please keep in mind that model car fuel is very corrosive and it's best to burn all the fuel out of the engine at the end of your race. Simply run your fuel tank dry and the engine will burn all excess fuel that's in the fuel lines and inside the engine. Recommend that you always use after run oil at the end of each days running.

Here are two different ways to stall your engine before you run it out of fuel.

	1. Simply use a rag to block the exhaust flow from the muffler/ tunedj pipe. be careful the pipe may be very hot.
	2. Pinch the fuel line that feeds the carburetor with fuel. The engine will rev. up then stall. This is normal because the engine is being leaned out due to lack of fuel.

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Running-in the Engine Notice:
high performance engines must be correctly broken-in for maximum performance and life! Rushing this process can result in premature engine failure.

       One important thing to remember when breaking in a new engine, it will appear to not run correctly. It will stall, operate very inconsistently, and may even foul glow plugs. Don't get frustrated with it. Just keep working with it and it will become a smooth running engine. These experiences are what can be called "break-in pains". Every new engine has to go through this. When you get the engine started, be sure to keep it running by giving it throttle when it sounds like it's going to stall. Pulling the throttle quickly can also stall the engine. After a couple of tanks your patience will pay off with a very strong, reliable running engine.

       Break-in should be done using at least 4-5 tanks of fuel. Please don't take short cuts and run less tanks. Don't listen to your friends that tell you that it doesn't really matter, IT DOES!

       Its best to break-in the engine using the same nitro content as you plan to use for everyday use. The engine should be broken-in on a smooth hard surface. For a boat engines, try to find smooth clam water. Try to avoid breaking-in the engine on very hot, or humid days.

       Turning the mixture screws clockwise will "lean" the air/fuel mixture. This will increase power and increase engine temperature. Turning the screws to the left counter-clockwise will "richen" the air/fuel mixture. This will cool the engine and make it last longer. When adjusting the idle screw, turning to the left will lower the idle and right will raise the idle. Remember to open the carburetor a little whenever you tighten the idle screw to prevent breaking off the tip of the screw.

       Always break-in your engine without the body on the car, you want as much airflow as you can get to keep the engine cool. Do not run the engine too lean or you will over heat it and cause permanent damage to the internal components of the engine.

       It is normal for the engine to consume a lot of fuel during break-in. This is because you are running it "richer" than you normally would to keep the engine cool and to flush out the engine as the parts "seat" themselves. Because of the richer than normal setting the performance of the engine will be limited. After break-in, you will then lean it out to gain performance.

       It's always a good idea to get an extra glow plug (short, cold plug). It is normal to have to replace it after break-in because of the deposits left on in from the break-in process. Glow plugs are a normal item that needs replacing. Because they have such a huge influence on they way your engine runs it best to always have a few spares on hand.

Start your engine, drive the car slowly around to let the engine heat up. Ease the throttle on and off slowly. Don't let the car stay still for long periods of time, this will heat up the clutch bell and could damage it.
The idle speed should be set as low as possible to keep the engine running when the car is stopped.
3. The final settings on the top end needle will vary slightly from engine to engine. Look for the following performance signs:
- Engine should accelerate quickly.
- Blue/white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. If no blue smoke it coming out, you need to "richen" the top end needle.
Alternate driving at low to medium speeds, with short periods of high speed running
When the engine reaches normal running temperature, it will pick up speed and performance will improve.
When the tank is close to running out bring in the car and shut off the engine. Let it cool completely, then refuel and run again. Part of the break-in process is also to heat cycle the parts in side the engine.
Remember always run the engine with a clean air filter.

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Signs of Overheating If your engine stalls from overheating it most likely has caused damage to the components inside of it.

The simplest way to test for over heating is to put a drop of water or spite on top of the engine head. If it boils away instantly shut the engine down and let it cool off. If it takes 5-7 seconds for the water to evaporate away, then the engine is running at a good temperature. Hobby shops sell temperature guns that tell you what they are running at. Ideally you want it to run around 260 degrees.

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Tuning Engine for Power By now, your engine should be broken in by now. You can start to adjust it for maximum performance. The first thing you should check is to make sure that when you pull full throttle the carburetor is fully opening. If you take the air filter off and pull the trigger all the way back it should look like the picture. You should always keep the engine within its intended operating temperature. Going above these could and most likely will cause damage. As you lean the engine out, it will run faster and faster till you hit a point where it will overheat. When this has happened it will start to stutter, hesitate, or even stall. The engine will over heat very quickly when the mixture has been set too lean. Check the engine often when leaning it out to make sure its not overheating.

When you have the mixture set correctly you will hear the engine running smoothly and have a strong-sounding high pitch when you let it wind out. Running the engine a little "rich" is always a lot better then running it to "lean".

Once again: Lean = less fuel
            Rich = more fuel

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Tuning the High-Speed Mixture The high-speed mixture will affect the way engine runs at mid and high R.P.M.s. This is the main needle that you will adjust the most. Once you get you engine running good, this will be the only needle that you should have to mess with.

Run the car on a smooth flat surface with enough room to let the model get up to top speed. Keep track of the speed as you slowly (1/8 of a turn at a time) lean the engine. You can lean it as long as you continue to have thick blue smoke coming out of the pipe. If the engine gets up to top speed and looses power most likely you have "leaned" it too much. You want the high-speed mixture to be lean enough to get good power and still keep the engine cool. Use a temperature gun or the "spit" test to check the temperature of your engine. Remember, you want the engine to run around 270' or spit to sit on the head for around 5-7 seconds.

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Tuning the Low-Speed Mixture The low speed mixture affects how the engine will perform at idle and low R.P.M.s. Like the high-end mixture, the "leaner" you run it the more performance you will get out of it. If it is set too "lean" it will stutter and even stall out.

To properly set the low-end mixture, do the following procedures: Get the engine up to running operation temperature. Then from a complete stop pull full throttle, if the engine bogs down, you need to "lean" it out a bit. If it speeds up then bogs down, it's too "lean", "richen it up a bit. You want it to accelerate well with out stalling.

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Adjusting the Slipper Clutch Some cars are equipped with a slipper clutch. This is usually only on our 2wd versions. You want to set this so it doesn't slip when accelerating to slip when landing off a jump. Do not lock down. This will cause excessive strain on the drive train. When using on dirt you may use it to control tire spin. If you set it to slip for about a foot it will make it easier to drive in loose conditions.

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After Running After you have used your car for the day and are ready to store it here are some things you should follow to keep it in top shape for the next time you use it.

Because there is methanol in the fuel any left inside of the engine will attract moisture. This could cause corrosion on the internal parts of the engine. To combat this you should do the following.

Drain the fuel tank completely
Using your glow heater start the engine and run it until it burns all of the fuel that in the lines and in the engine out.
Remove the air filter and apply 6 drops of after run oil into the carburetor. Now pull the pull starter a few times to circulate that oil. Do not use the glow heater for this step! Do not store your car with fuel inside of it.
Clean off any fuel that remains on the car. Clean off any dirt or debris that remains on the car as well.

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Troubleshooting

       Glow plugs are items that will need to be replaced on a regular basis to maintain maximum performance. When your engine will not start this should be the first thing to be checked or replaced. The glow plug may also be the problem if your engine just seems to be running poorly. You may also check to see it the glow plug is leaking. Look for bubbles at the base of the glow plug. Tighten the glow plug, if problem still persists, replace glow plug with new. The only true way to see if your glow plug is bad is to replace with new. Checking by putting into glow heater to see if it lights is good to see if your heater is working, it may not show that a plug is fouled. Usually if the first few coils don't light up the plug is bad. If the plug doesn't glow bright orange, your glow heater may need to be charged.

       When installing new glow plug, loosen plug using a 5/16-inch wrench. Be careful not to get any dirt inside the engine. Look for the copper gasket, don't loose this, may be needed if new plug didn't come with one.

       Replacement glow plugs are available from your local hobby shop. Your engine came with a standard short, cold plug. Do not use plugs with idle bars.

       Nitro Fuel Many problems occur when using low quality fuels. Many times we get cars to tune and just by putting good quality fuel in them they run perfectly. During break-in period you will be using a lot of fuel. This is because of the "rich" settings that are required for this process. When your car/boat is running out of fuel, the fuel/air mixture will lean out radically. Because of this you should avoid letting the engine rev up to high R.P.Ms. This could foul the glow plug, and create un-necessary over heating of the engine. Always be sure to keep the cap on your fuel bottle tight! If you leave the cap of the bottle even for a few days you should dispose of the entire bottle of fuel. This is because one of the major components of the fuel is methanol. Methanol will attract moisture from the air and suck it into your fuel if left in contact with air. Uncapped fuel will also get dust and other containments in it that will harm you engine. Keep the fuel out of direct sunlight.

       Poor quality fuels will create a number of different problems for your engine. There are brands of fuel that do not use pure nitro methane. They use a low cost blend of nitro methane and nitro propane. If your fuel is not a blend of both castor and high quality oil, its high recommended that you do not use it. Simply put, cheap fuel will cause a lot of problems that will make your experience a bad one. You MUST use a fuel that meets the guidelines listed above to assure a good running engine. Be sure to use a nitro content between 10-20%. The higher the nitro content, the hotter the engine will run. Usually its best to use lower nitro% in warn weather and higher in cold.

       Always check the fuel lines for cracks or splits at the fittings on the tank and the carburetors. These cracks or splits will allow air to enter the line, which will lean the fuel/air mixture. If you think you may have any problems with the fuel lines replace with new.

       Flooding it is easy to accidentally flood the engine. If you find the pull starter difficult to pull that is a symptom of the engine being flooded. To get the excess fuel out of the engine remove the glow plug, hold engine upside down and pull the started a few times. The gas will drip out, and then retighten the glow plug and retry.

       Carburetor The carburetor is one of the simplest components on the engine. It controls how the engine will run and how reliable it is going to be. Because of the importantes of the carburetor, you must always make sure to keep it clean. Dirt is its worst enemy; always clean any dirt that you see on it, especially around the air intake. If your air filter becomes dirty and you can't wash it always replace with new. If you are getting a lot of dirt or debris in your fuel tank you may want to install a fuel filter in the intake line. These are available at your local hobby shop.

       Fuel mixture This is the only way you can adjust how your engine will run. There are many factors that can result in your engine not running perfectly. Fuel, ambient temperature, and humidity all affect the way the engines going to run. If one day your engine runs strong, then the next day it's really humid and cold then you may need to make adjustments to the fuel mixture. This is a normal thing to expect with all nitro engines.

Pull Starter Problems

       Almost all starter problems are due to pulling the cord out too far. Other things that cause failure of pull starter are, pulling the cord when the engine if flooded, and pulling the cord like it's a lawnmower. Your car/boat is not a lawnmower and should not be treated as one. Do not pull and let go of the cord, this could snap the handle off the cord, or damage the spring inside. *Make sure to hold the engine, not the hull when starting your boat or PWC.

Cooling Problems

       Overheating is one of the most damaging things that can be done to a nitro engine. Many things can cause it, poor air flow, mixture set to "lean", towing or climbing for long periods of time, ECT. If your engine overheats, stop the engine and let it cool down. Next look at what might be the reason for the over heating. First check to see if you have good air flow through the engine cooling head. The user should always cut out a big hole in the windshield in front and in back of the engine head. The driver side window is a good idea too.

Clutch Bells

       The clutch bell gear on your car will wear from use and should be check regularly for excessive wear. When the teeth are worn to a point, they need to be replaced. Check the spur gear for signs of wear when replacing the clutch bell gear.

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Maintenance        Connecting rod The connection rod should be inspected every gallon of gas you run. If it shows signs of wear, it needs to be replaced.

       Air cleaner The air cleaner always needs to be on the engine when you run your engine. It should always be kept clean or replaced with new if it can't be cleaned. When washing air filter foam, remember to use light oil on the out side of it. Best way to do this is by placing the foam in a small plastic bag. Next place a couple of drops of light oil on inside of the bag, do not use too much. Then rub the foam around in the bag spreading the oil. You now should have a lightly oiled air filter foam. Put air filter back together and reinstall on engine.

       Cleaning The engine should be cleaned on a regular basis to keep dirt and grim down to a minimum. Not cleaning your engine can cause the engine to overheat. Using a nitro wash, or denatured alcohol with a toothbrush to scrub the parts clean. Be sure not to spray any type of cleaner on the servos, receiver or the batteries. If the engine is extremely dirty it's best to remove the engine from the chassis or boat. *DO NOT GET ANY CLEANER ON THE HULL OF YOUR BOAT. Always check the drive train of the car to make sure it's not bond up. This will create the engine to overheat and loose performance. Always check the bushing/bearings to make sure they are spinning freely. If they are dirty or gritty you may clean them with nitro wash and then re-oil them. For bushings, let then soak in a light oil then wipe off and re-install.

Storing Your Car or Boat

       When you are planning to store your model there are a few things that you need to do to keep it in running condition. You should first empty all the fuel out of the fuel tank. Second, burn all the remaining fuel out of the engine and fuel lines. Third, clean entire car and engine off. Fourth, remove air filter and put few drops of after-run oil in carburetor. Pull the pull started a few times to coat all the internal parts with oil. Store your fuel in an airtight container in a dark cool place. If planning on not using for a long period of time, may want to discard fuel. Old fuel should not be use for any reasons.

Using Your Model Safely

       As the owner of the model, it is your responsibility to see that it is used in a safe and reasonable manner. By using common since, you will avoid serious injury to your self, or the people around you. Here is a list of things to know:

Nitro fuel is dangerous. The fuel is extremely poisonous and can ignite is in contact with a spark. Follow all instructions on the outside of the container.
Keep your car/boat and all tools including fuel, away from small children.
The exhaust from the engine contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas. Always use in a well-ventilated area. Never start your engine indoors unless there is adequate ventilation.
The engine, exhaust pipe, and of course, the engines cooling head, will become extremely hot when in, and after use. Try to avoid touching there areas as they have the potential to burn you.
We do not recommend running your model at night, on public streets, or in crowded areas.
Always be careful not to come in contact with the engines flywheel.
Your model car or boat is a high performance machine. Because of the high speeds your car or boat, they can cause serious injury to either yourself, or spectators. Always be careful not to hurt anyone.
As you already know, your engine creates a lot of noise. Because of this, be considerate to your neighbors. Try to run your car/boat in a place where the noise will not disturb anyone.
Do not attempt to run your engine with gasoline, alcohol, naptha, or any other fuel other then model engine fuel.

Mechanical Precautions

Your engine is a high performance engine that can tune over 30,000 R.P.Ms at full throttle. If your engine is ran at high R.P.Ms for a continuous amount of time, your internal engine parts will be damaged and the overall life of the engine will be reduced. If you are running the engine at high speeds, expect to replace engine parts more often.

Never run the engine with out the air filter. Replace or clean if dirty.
Always check air filter when refueling tank. If missing, shut engine off and replace.
When car is upside down, don't rev the engine. If car is upside down too long it will stall.
Do not over-rev the engine. Only give throttle when wheels are on the ground.
Allowing the engine to run out of fuel while at high R.P.Ms can foul the glow plug.
Test the radio system before operating each time. Always make sure to use strong batteries. If you notice slow servos are any low voltage light on your radio come on stop using and replace batteries.
Do not drive your car in thick grass or in soft sand. This could lead to the engine overheating.
Your engine is not waterproof! Running your model in water will damage your electronics and your engine.
The starter cord should not be pulled out more than 8 inches. Longer pulls will only damage the spring inside the recoil.
Do not buy fuel if you are unsure of the contents. Try to avoid unknown names or brands. These may be cheaper, but may not have the required contents and end up damaging your engine. For the most part- all major brands should contain the correct oil contents.
Break-in the engine using the same percentage of nitro that you expect to use engine.

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Quick Reference Chart

Description of Problem	Cause of Problem	Solution of Problem
Engine will not start	Out of fuel	Fill tank with fuel
	Wrong type or poor quality fuel	Replace fuel
	Carburetor not primed	Prime carburetor
	Glow heater not charged	Charge glow heater
	Bad glow plug	Replace glow plug
	Engine flooded	See Flooding
	Engine too hot	Allow engine to cool
	Carburetor set incorrectly	Readjust carburetor
	Blocked exhaust	Clean or remove debris from exhaust system
	Air filter clogged	Remove and clean air filter
Starter will not retract	Broken spring	Replace recoil assembly
Starter hard to pull	Engine is flooded	See flooding
	Engine is seized or locked up	Take engine apart
Engine starts then stalls	Idle set to low	Increase idle speed
	Bad glow plug	Replace with new
	Low-speed mixture too "rich"	"Lean" low-speed mixture
	Low fuel tank pressure	Check for blockage in fuel pressure line.
	Engine overheated	Allow engine to cool down
Engine sluggish or poor performance	High-speed mixture set to "rich"	Lean out high-speed mixture
	Leaking glow plug	Tighten or replace glow plug
	Bad glow plug	Replace glow plug
	Old or dirty fuel	Replace with new fuel
	Carburetor dirty or blocked	Clean carburetor, check for blockage
	Engine overheating	Stop running and richen fuel mixture
	Slipper clutch set too loose	Tighten slipper clutch
	Tires not glued/wheel pins fell out	Glue tires/replace wheel pins
	Engine over geared	Use lower gearing
	Bound up drive train	Check drive train, and make it free
	Engine worn out	Replace piston/sleeve and check connecting rod
Engine overheating	High-speed mixture to lean	Richen high-speed mixture (counter-clockwise)
	Cooling air flow is blocked	Cut holes in body to allow air flow
	Nitro content too high	Run nitro content between 10-20%
	Fuel not containing correct lubricants	Purchase a higher quality fuel
	Excessive load on the engine	Check for bound up drive train
	Low-speed mixture too lean	Richen low-speed mixture
For boats only	Clogged cooling head	Check water cooled head for clogging
Engine stutters or hesitates	High or low-speed mixture too lean	Richen high first then low
	Engine overheated	Stop engine and let it cool down
	Bad glow plug	Replace with new
Engine stall as soon as you give it gas	Bad glow plug	Replace with new
	Low-speed mixture too lean	Richen low-speed mixture
	High-speed too rich	Lean high-speed mixture
Engine stalls when I let go of throttle	Idle set too low	Increase idle
Engine stalls for no apparent reason	Bad glow plug	Replace with new
	Engine overheated	Shut off and let cool down, richen high-speed
	Debris in fuel line	Remove and retry
	Poor fuel tank pressure	Check hose foe clogging

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Engine Assembly Step 1
Remove the four machines screws that attach the pull starter. Next carefully remove the recoil assembly, use a screwdriver to slide the one-way bearing off the hub. You don't want the spring inside to come uncoiled.

Step 2
Remove the four screws that attach the back plate. *When reassembling, its best to replace the back plate gasket.

Step 3
You should now see the connection rod. Look for cracks or other signs of wear or damage. Also check for worn out bushings, there should be very little play between bushings and the shaft.

Replacing Piston and Sleeve

After completing the steps above, remove the two screws that attach your manifold.

Step 4
Next remove the four screws that secure the engine head to the crankcase. *Be sure to use a good wrench in order not to strip the head screws, they will be TIGHT (part #G84234)

Step 5
With the cooling head removed, gently pull the sleeve out, Take note of the way the ports are pointed, and where the notch on the sleeve is placed.

Step 6
Slide the bottom of the connecting rod off of the crankshaft stub. Also note the direction the piston is facing. With the piston and connecting rod out of the engine, you want to remove the piston pin.

Step 7
With the piston off the connecting rod, put the new one on onto the rod the same way the old piston was positioned. Push the pin and replace the Teflon pin covers. Next put the piston with the connecting rod inside the case and slide the rod on the crankshaft. *Be sure to have the piston facing the correct direction.

Step 8
Install the new sleeve. Align the piston with the sleeve and slide the sleeve into place. You need to make sure the notch in the sleeve is positioned in the same placed it was when the head was taken off.

Step 9
Next put the cooling head back onto the engine case. Tighten the screws in a crossing direction as even as possible.

Step 10
Looking through the exhaust port, you should see the hole in the sleeve line up with the hole in the engine case. If there is not opening, you need to turn the sleeve 180' When you turn the engine, you will see the piston push up, look at the piston as its going pass the exhaust opening. You should NOT see a port on the side of it. If you do, the piston is in the wrong way, Turn 180'.

      Step 11
Now you are ready to put the back plate and recoil assembly back onto the engine. Put the back plate with new gasket on the back of the engine case, to line up notch in the back plate turn the shaft that sticks out of the back plate to line the notch on the back plate up with the crank case. Attach using the four screws. Next put the recoil assembly onto the back plate and attach with four more screws. Be sure to put the one-way bearing in the recoil assembly on the same way as you took it off.

Removing the Clutch Assembly

       To remove the clutch shoes or the flywheel, follow the following steps.

Step 1
Remove engine from model and clean off all dirt and grim.

Step 2
Remove the clutch bell by removing the screw at the end of the crankshaft. You will need to use a large pair of pliers to grip the flywheel as you loosen the screw.

Step 3
Remove the clutch bell. Now you will see the clutch shoes. Remove the "E" clip with a small flat head screwdriver. Take note of the direction the clutch shoes are installed. You want the shoes to follow the direction of the engine. Pull the clutch shoes off leaving the spring around them. You should now just be left with the flywheel. To remove the flywheel, grip the flywheel using a large pair of pliers, then with a 5/16th nut driver, loosen the clutch nut. The flywheel should now come off; it may require a few taps to break it loose.

Step 4
Check all parts for wear and replace as needed. Check the inside of the clutch bell for material left by the clutch shoes. If a lot of material is melted to the inside of the clutch bell, you may need to replace the clutch shoes as well.

*If you leave the car sitting still or towing items for long periods of time, you definitely should consider replacing the clutch shoes and even the clutch bell.

Check the two bearings in the clutch bell. Are they smooth? They should be smooth and not be gritty or locked up. If they are, you need to replace them before reinstalling.

Step 5
Follow the steps you just completed but, in the opposite direction. Make sure to get the clutch nut on tight. On some engines, there will be a flywheel shim that's between the engine case and the back of the flywheel, look for this when removing your flywheel, and replace if there is one. You don't want your flywheel coming loose while your running.

Clearing the Water-Cooled Engine Head on Nitro Boats

       If you have used the boat in dirty water or the engine seems to be overheating your engines cooling head may be clogged.

Step 1
Remove the four screws that attach the head to the engine. The cooling head should come part. Remove anything that should not be there.

Step 2
Replace halves back together and attach with four screws.

Recoil Starter Repair

Remove the recoil starter by removing the four screws that attach the started to the engine. Next remove the one-way hub from the center of the spool. Untie the knot that holds the handle on the cord. Let the cord pull into the housing. Next Carefully disassemble the recoil using extra caution with the recoil spring.

Step 1
To reassemble the starter, start by inserting the end of the spring into the slot on the starter spool. Slowly wrap the spring around the inside of the spool like the picture.

Step 2
Insert the spool into the recoil housing. Insert the end of the cord through the hole in the outer casing. At this time tie a temporary knot in the end of cord.

Step 3
With the cord through the hole and the spool inside the housing, its time to coil up the spring. Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, grip the spring through the center of the spool at the bend. Make sure the cord is not pulled into the house or you need to start all over. While holding the center of the spring turn and coil the spring clock-wise to tighten the tension. Turn the spring one full rotation and put the end of the spring into the spring mount in the center of the housing.

Step 4
Now you need to put your handle back onto the cord. While holding the cord from being pulled back into untie the temporary knot that was tied in step 2, Slid the handle spacer then the handle onto the cord. You now need to tie a double knot into the end to prevent the cord from being pulled back in. Please note it may be difficult to hold the cord and tie a knot at the same time. You may want someone to help you. Your recoil should now work correctly. While holding the spool in the housing

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2 Speed

Please be sure to read and follow the instructions supplied with the 2-speed carefully. The following tips will help you get your 2-speed to shift correctly.

My 2-speed does not shift?

First thing to check is was shifting hub installed correctly. Make sure that shift hub is installed exactly as pictured in the instructions. Both sides of the hub look the same use the setscrews as a reference to match the picture.
If you are sure your shift hub is installed correctly but its still not shifting than you need to loosen the spring tension on the shift finger. To achieve this, you need to loosen the 3x3 setscrew with a 1.5mm wrench. Adjust ?turn at a time until desired shifting is obtained.

My Pinion gears keep coming loose on my clutch bell?

If you purchased the 2-speed with the treaded clutch bell you need to tighten up the pinions onto the clutch bell. First get them as tight as you can before installing it onto your car. The first time you run the car, tighten them further by taking off from a complete stop a few times. It's important to not use the brakes the first few times. If you didn't tighten them on well they will come off when you hit the breaks.

Make sure your 2-speed was designed for the car you installed it on.

If you install a 2-speed onto a car/truck it was not designed for it may not shift. This is due to the fact of different gearing combinations being used for different cars. One example of this would be installing a 2-speed designed for a rally car onto a MT. In most cases, it will not shift.

What are these extra springs for?

Some models include 2 free adjustment springs. These springs are softer and stiffer than the stock spring. Use these to adjust the shifting point on your car if the stock spring does not give you the desired effect.
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